In Search of Liberation- Haridwar and Rishikesh

Burdened by the self-imposed expectations and entrapped in the vicious cycle of desires, I have recently started seeking liberation (Moksha is one of the purusharthas too). The thought that experiential knowledge is more important than factual collection has penetrated my mind. I feel that instead of reading numerous scriptures if a person can internalise even a single precept then he is on the right track. Bharatiyata has always advocated supremacy of experiential knowledge over the academic knowledge. Hence, the concept of siddha-purusha. The concept of realised soul reigns supreme in Bharat even today. Haridwar and self-realisation go hand in hand as far as spiritual progress is concerned.

By the quirk of fate and planning of my mother, I chanced to visit Haridwar on the occasion of Kartik Purnima on 4th of November, 2017. The waxing and waning of the Moon have a significant role in shaping the life of common Bharatis. Fasting and bathing in holy rivers throughout the country is a widely observed phenomenon. The ghats of Ganges are full of devotees on various auspicious days of Purnima, Ekadashi etc. Whole Haridwar was bustling with throngs of devotees who were there to wash their sins and seek deliverance by bathing in the perennially magnanimous Gangaji. The way we Bharatis revere the forces of nature is quite unique and forms an inseparable part of our daily lives including our conversations.

NDLS to HW by Shatabadi Express

Indian Railway is a unique social laboratory that must be experienced by everyone. Tired after writing for 27 hours at a stretch and filled with apprehensions about future, I boarded Dehradun Shatabdi Express which would be the start of the visit to many religious sites in the coming days. Seated in front of me was an elderly couple that discussed the uselessness of young generation of their family member. They were perhaps visiting an ailing relative of theirs whose morbid condition was attributable to the apathy of the younger generation. In the meantime, they also rebuked from talking on the mobile phone while it was connected to the charger- Beta aise baat nahi ki jaati! I retorted with a meek sorry followed by a deliberate delving into the Siddhartha and silence. Silence sometimes is a potent weapon indeed.

Arrival in Haridwar

The train reached Haridwar on time. All the roads in Haridwar that day were jam-packed with an assortment of vehicles that were either going to or returning from Har ki Pauri. The mythical story goes that Lord Vishnu’s footprints are imbibed there when He visited the place during Vedic times. Myths, after all, govern our lives in myriad ways. Sometimes I feel that our whole life is a myth in the garb of logic.

Haridwar is a serene place where saffron permeates from sky to land. Temple bells wake you up in the morning. Pollution has not reached the alarming levels of Delhi, so getting the fresh whiff of air early in the morning is not a rarity yet.

After considerable haggling, I was able to hire an auto-rickshaw at a reasonable fare. I stayed at Baba Buddhsdas’ Khichdi waala Ashram.

Holy bath in Har ki Paudi

I chanted Ram naam while waiting for my family to arrive in Haridwar. Observing throngs of people who had congregated for the holy bath, I was overwhelmed by the sheer number and cumulative devotion that permeated the ambiance. With glistened eyes, I finally took a dubki in Ganga maiyaa seeking expiation for what may be considered as wrong. The chilling waters provided unbelievable warmth to the soul withered by the vicious coldness of the material existence.

Settled in a particular mental zone a person can sense unity with the divine in that infinitesimal moment inside the water. The buoyant blessings of Gangaji make you feel like a child playing in the safe lap of the mother.

Neelkanth in Rishikesh

Bharatiya culture emphasises on the glory of sacrifice. Mahadev Shiva is also known as Neelkanth as he swallowed the kaalkoot poison and held it in his throat that turned it blue. That bluish tinge is the reflection of the sacrifice by the Lord himself for saving the inhabitants of the Earth. Neelkanth Mahadev Temple is dedicated to this life-saving form of Shiva. It has special significance and witnesses kanwar yatra in shravana maas(rainy season). Serpentine queues were formed for darshan of the deity. 

After waiting for two hours in the queue I was able to get the darshan of Shiva Linga. Mind attains a meditative trance while waiting for the blessings of the beloved Shiva. The path to realisation is unique for every individual. I do not know that the path I am treading is right or wrong. Experience will reveal the ultimate truth, if there is any, in the fullness of time.

HW to PRAYAG

A day later I left for Prayag with my family. My mind was bogged down by various questions pertaining life and all that constitutes it. Dangling between the horrendous past and uncertain future I reached Prayag in a flustered state. With the dust settling over my oily facade and drying my hairy greys, I had a lot to ponder over the coming days that was to be followed by the journey to the land of Somnath.

The futility of all that is beautiful including the life would reveal itself. Yes, love is a mirage that betrays your reasonableness.  Gadgets make you dumb internally. All that makes human being indulge in vanity is dispensable. The only truth is the question. Is there any permanent truth that might get revealed by resorting to rituals or pilgrimage? I feel these pilgrimages provide a greater exposure and view of the world which ultimately impels a person to look inside.

After all, all that matters lies inside- one in all and all in one.

It is reflected so wisely in this aphorism that was at display on Haridwar railway station.

Allahabad has this peculiar sense of saturation that still your mind. You are bound to succumb to living morbidity if there are no avenues of diversion. Sangam provides that visage if one has eyes and soul to sense. Maybe my journey, literally and figuratively, that started at Sangam will ultimately end here. All journeys ultimately end in the realisation that beginning will always remain the same despite our proclivity for seeking distinction.

– Prashant